Upland Hunting With A Bird Dog
By Renee Flatland
Picture this: A group of men and women dressed in orange on a crisp fall morning, walking through cattails carrying their firearms, loaded and ready to take aim. But they have no dogs with them. That just wouldn’t be right. When you think about upland hunting, the first thing you will need to consider is a dog. Sure, you can walk out in a field and manage to get lucky and kick up a bird on your own, but that’s not going to be successful in the long-term.
There are too many birds that will run right by your feet that you will completely miss. It’s the dog’s nose that brings upland hunting full circle.
Watching dogs work is the real enjoyment. Upland hunting with a dog is an experience like no other. The partnership between you and the animal, working together to claim that bird is priceless ... when all your training and preparation come together. If you thought you loved dogs before, wait until you hunt with one.
When upland hunting with a dog, there are numerous things to consider. There are plenty of do’s and don’ts, some that are more a personal preference, and some that require you to know your own dog.
CONDITIONING
First and foremost, you’re going to want to make sure that your dog is healthy and happy. Just like an athlete, your dog’s conditioning is critical. You should never start your dog right out the gates on opening day.
Take your dog on training runs and practice hunts prior to hunting season. Walking your dog daily helps keep them in shape; allowing them to run distances is even better. Hunting season may only be a short amount of time in comparison to the entire year, but keeping your dog conditioned is a year round activity.
In the off season we bring our dog Archer to a game farm so he is able to utilize his nose, stay sharp with scents and get in great exercise. We also like to take him out on our land and allow him to run. If you do not have access to private land, look for public land nearby. Check with a game warden regarding your state’s regulations for exercising dogs on public land.
DOG CARE
The biggest mistake hunters make when it comes to caring for their loyal hunting partner is neglecting their paws. One split nail or one sharp object will put your dog down for the count.
We clip Archer’s toenails prior to any hunt. Trimming a dog’s nails can be a bit nerve racking, and we know some hunters who take their dogs to the vet prior to hunting season to get their nails trimmed and do a wellness check.
If you’re doing it yourself, make sure not to not trim your dog’s nails too short. Also consider waxing their paws. Think about running barefoot through the terrain birds like most. Your dog’s pads are tougher than your bare feet, but most environments you’ll be hunting can cause damage to their paws.
Wax applications help protect their pads from getting cut or damaged during cold months. Wax also helps keep the pad soft and prevents cracking.
Another option for paw care is dog boots. Your dog will need to get used to wearing them, so you should train with the booties prior to season. It can take dogs some time to get used to booties, and you don’t want their first experience with booties to be a hunt. I mean, they have birds to focus on and those booties will be a distraction if it is their first time wearing them.
SAFETY
Always carry a first aid kit with you. It is not uncommon for a branch to lash your dog in the eye or briars to cut legs and paws. A first aid kit can save the day — and your dog — when the situation arises.
It is key to stabilize your dog’s injury until a veterinarian can perform professional care. Items we consider must-haves include surgical soap, gauze, vetwrap, tape, triple antibiotic ointment, cotton balls, a staple gun (for temporarily closing wounds), EMT gel, tissue glue, needle-nose pliers, hemostats, saline solution, electrolytes, probiotics, hydrogen peroxide and any other medications your dog may have prescribed.
If you plan to travel to hunt, do some research prior to your hunt dates and know where you can take your dog in case of an emergency. Many veterinary clinics have an after-hours emergency numbers, and it’s a good idea to preload those into your phone prior to a trip.
NUTRITION & HYDRATION
When it comes to feeding your dog prior to hunting, there are conflicting opinions. This is something you need to figure out with your dog.
I have friends who say a hungry dog hunts harder. We prefer to fuel our dog prior to the hunt so he has energy and stamina. We feed Archer at least 2 hours prior to going out. He is on a scheduled eating pattern, and if we don’t feed him twice a day around the same time, he gets an upset stomach. Again, it is all about knowing your dog.
Digestion can take up to 12 hours. This is why we prefer to feed Archer a nutritious meal the night prior. You also need to take into consideration how much you feed your dog. If you are working your dog harder, you should increase the amount of food.
While making sure your dog is fed correctly it is also important to ensure your dog is hydrated. Always have water, electrolytes and a collapsible dish with you.
COMMUNICATION WITH DOG
Keeping your dog close can be a challenge. Archer is a German Shorthaired Pointer. I am able to let him get ahead a bit, knowing he will stay on point until I get close enough to command him to push the bird out. However, we often hunt with labs, too, and have learned that we can’t let him get ahead when other dogs are present. This has helped him understand how to hunt with or without a flusher.
Jason, my fiancé, spent many hours when Archer was a puppy teaching him what his collar beeps meant. When Archer is moving too far ahead in the field we beep him on his collar. We avoid shocking him because we want him to move forward and focus on the hunt. He LOVES to hunt, and we want to keep it that way; he just needs to slow down sometimes.
It is important to practice commands with your dog. Make sure to use the same commands in your everyday routines, as well. Consistency is key when it comes to commands. In the field, fewer words are better. This allows your dog to know exactly what you mean by the command of one word. For example, When Archer is creeping too far forward, we use the word heal. If that command doesn’t work, we use the beep and heal command together.
If you are hunting with a pointer, you should have a release word. Most think a release word would be for a dog in a blind. This allows your pointer to know when it is okay to break point and allow the bird to flush. If you are a beginner, start out slow with your dog. Increase the difficulty levels slowly.
I know some hunters who use a whistle instead of a shock/beep collar to command their dog. Shock collars are not typically breakaway collars, which means they can get hung up in thick brush, essentially trapping your dog. Using whistle training typically allows you to choose a collar your dog can break out of if it gets caught on something.
TIPS AND TRICKS IN THE FIELD
When hunting with a dog, it’s even more important than usual to know the weather. If it’s going to be hot, keep your hunt shorter than you would on a cooler fall day. Your dog’s body reacts to temperature the say way yours does: the hotter it is, the more stress exertion puts on your body. Consider how much more ground your dog covers than you do.
Learn to read your dog. For pointers, it’s pretty easy to see when they are on point. They pick up on a scent and lock in. With flushers, you usually can see them get “birdy.” Every flusher is a bit different depending on what that behavior looks like. Some telltale signs can be a FAST-wagging tail, lowered head or covering the same ground over and over. When you see your dog get birdy, slow down and let her work the area.
If you have a pointer on point get there as quickly as you can. If you take too long, the birds sometimes run without the dog knowing. This not only disappoints you, but also your dog. You want your dog to have the reward of the flush after finding the scent.
Always keep your dog under control and don’t allow them to break your commands. A dog that strays will bump birds far ahead and not allow you a shot. Your dog will have a much better experience if you get a shot — and hopefully the bird.
If your dog is successful, appreciate the moment with them, especially at time of retrieval. Bird hunting with a dog is an amazing experience for you and your dog. Make sure to soak it all in and remember that every day is a lesson.